Every year millions of holidaymakers flock to the golden beaches of Portugal’s Algarve to soak up the sun; but few think of travelling a couple of hundred kilometres further north to the country’s capital. As a result, Lisbon has avoided the worst tourist excesses that have spoilt many of Europe’s cities.

Lisbon is small compared with other national capitals with a city population of around 600,000 (according to the 2001 census), but what it lacks in size it makes up for in atmosphere and liveliness. Once the centre of one of the greatest empires in the western world, it has been devastated by two earthquakes (one in 1531 and another in 1755).

However, much of its historical heart survived intact and can be seen today in the Baixa, or lower town, its narrow winding streets dominated by the Sao Jorge Castle. Not much remains inside the castle walls, but it is worth a visit for the stunning views over the rest of the city. Another survivor of the earthquakes is the nearby cathedral of Santa Maria Maior, more commonly known as the Se.

A short train journey away is Belem, now a pretty suburb but once the starting point for Portugal’s globe trotting navigators and discoverers. The famous Torre de Belem graces a million postcards but is rather under whelming in real life, partly due its location on a modern promenade.

The lavish Jeronimos a Monastery is altogether more impressive, but the real highlight of any visit to Belem has to be the cafes selling Portuguese custard tarts, a specialty of the area. Best enjoyed straight from the oven with a strong black coffee, the queues outside the huge cafes are a testimony to the popularity of the sweet pastries with both locals and tourists alike.

Nightlife
As night falls the partygoers of Lisbon head upwards to the Bairro Alto, literally ‘high quarter’. If the areas steep hills sound daunting after a heavy day of sightseeing, both the Gothic revival Elevador de Santa Justa and the funicular trams can take the pain out of the journey.

The area’s tiny alleyways are packed with restaurants and bars, many of them spilling out onto the streets as the night progresses. The Barrio Alto is also the home of Fado, a local folk music originating from the 1820’s featuring the heartfelt and anguished vocals of black-clad Portuguese divas.

Gay Scene
For such a small city, Lisbon has a thriving gay scene. Much of it is located in the Bairro Alto and Pincipe Real areas, most famously at Fragil in the Rua di Altalia. In fact the small cellar club is mixed on most evenings, and doesn’t really get going until 1am. A short walk away is Bric-a-Bar, which also has a small dance floor and is always packed at the weekends. But the hippest club of the moment is Trumps (104 Rua da Imprensa Nacional), a huge basement venue spread over two floors with a large dance floor as well as quieter bars and a chill-out area. Like most of Lisbon’s clubs, the music is hardly cutting edge, but the locals are friendly and always ready to party well into the early hours.

More information can be found at the Centro Comunitario Gay e Lesbico de Lisboa (Rua de São Lázaro 88; tel. 21/887-39-18), which has a cafeteria and small bookshop. It is worth remembering that Portugal is still a rigidly Catholic country, and public displays of gay affection may be frowned upon by the conservative locals.

In terms of tourist attractions Lisbon has nothing to rival the palaces, museums and churches of Paris or London, but with its laid back daily life and buzzing gay scene after dark, it’s the perfect location for a fun packed weekend break.

Have you been to Lisbon? Leave your tips and thoughts on the message boards. Or if you want to write a gay travel guide, then get in touch at travel@gaydarnation.com.

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